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by Cliff Co 6 min read
The foundation is done and the delivery truck has left, leaving you standing in front of pallets of lumber and a manual. This is the moment your project transforms from a plan into a building. Learning how to erect a barndominium frame is not as intimidating as it looks, especially with the pre-cut components provided in DIY barndominium kits.
Best Barns kits are designed so you do not need to be a master carpenter to succeed since you mostly need to follow the sequence. The system is designed so you build individual components flat on the ground and then raise them like a barn-raising. This guide walks you through the major phases of framing your Handcrafted Homestead or Crafted Colossal kit based on the official assembly manuals.
You should never try to build a wall vertically. The manual instructs you to build them flat on your concrete slab or wood floor foundation to ensure they are square.

Separate your 2x4s by type, using treated lumber for the bottom plates which touch the concrete, and standard lumber for the top plates.
Lay them side-by-side and look for the "X" marks or measure your stud spacing, which is typically 16 inches on center.

Place the pre-cut wall studs between the plates. You will use 16d galvanized nails to secure the bottom plate to the stud and 10d coated sinker nails to secure the top plate.
If the wall has a window or door, you will assemble the header using 2x8s and OSB filler and install it into the frame while it is still on the ground.

Once a wall section is built, mark it (e.g., "Rear Wall," "Side Wall") and set it aside so you can repeat the process until all exterior wall sections are done.
Now you go vertical, a step that requires at least two people to do safely.

Lift the rear wall frame first and position it along your layout line. If you are on a concrete slab, you will drill and install concrete anchor bolts, or if you are on a wood floor, you nail through the bottom plate into the floor joists.

Since a single wall will fall over, you must prop it up immediately. Use a spare 2x4 to hold the wall plumb by nailing one end to the side of a stud and the other end to a stake in the ground or a block on the floor.

Stand the adjacent side wall and butt the corners together, ensuring the corner stud marked "C" is in the correct spot. Nail the two frames together where they meet to form a stable corner.
If you are building an XL or Colossal model, you now essentially build a "second foundation" in the air.
Install Headers and Hangers: You will install 2x10 joist headers around the top perimeter of your first-floor walls. Then, install metal joist hangers on these headers spaced directly above the wall studs below to carry the load.
Lay the Floor: Drop the pre-cut 2x10 floor joists into the metal hangers and secure them with 1-1/2" hanger nails. Finally, nail down the 3/4" tongue-and-groove flooring, staggering the seams for strength. This step gives you a flat, safe platform to walk on while you build the roof, as the manual specifically tells you to assemble the trusses up here rather than carrying them up a ladder later.

Best Barns kits use a unique truss system that you assemble yourself on site.

The manual will guide you to screw temporary blocks into your loft floor to create a "jig" or template, ensuring every truss you build is identical.

The front and rear gables (the triangular ends of the roof) are built first by laying the 2x6 truss members into your jig, attaching the gussets, and installing the siding while it is lying flat.

Once the gables are done, you assemble the standard roof trusses in the same jig using OSB gussets and glue to connect the 2x6 members at the "knees" (the bends in the gambrel roof) and the ridge.
This is the most physically demanding part, so you will need scaffolding for safety.

Stand the rear gable up first and brace it to the loft floor using 2x4s so it does not tip. Repeat this process for the front gable.

Just like the floor, the roof uses 2x6 truss plates with metal hangers. Install these plates along the side walls between the front and rear gables.

Lift your assembled trusses and drop them into the metal hangers, securing them with hanger nails. You will likely need to nail a long 2x4 across the top of the trusses to keep them spaced evenly and standing straight until the sheathing goes on.
If you chose the Crafted Colossal model with dormers, you have a few extra steps.
Dormer Assembly: You will assemble specific "dormer trusses" which are different from the standard main trusses. You also build a separate dormer wall frame on the loft floor and install it 46-3/8" from the gables.
Connecting it All: Set the dormer trusses into metal hangers on the back wall and screw them into a 2x12 tie plate on the front of the dormer wall. This creates the pop-out roof structure that gives the Colossal its signature look.

The frame is up, but it is not rigid yet because the roof sheathing (OSB panels) acts as the final structural lock.
Start at the Knee: Begin installing sheathing at the "knee" of the roof and work your way up to the peak and down to the eaves. If you are installing a ridge vent, leave a 1-inch gap at the very peak of the roof to allow hot air to escape. Once the sheathing is nailed down, your frame is officially erected and ready for shingles, windows, and doors.


Have any questions or would like to place an order? We'd love to help! Chat with our friendly customer service team by calling 1-844-945-3625, chatting in on our website or email us at customersupport@wildoaktrail.com. We look forward to hearing from you!
No, the trusses are assembled in pieces or sections that are light enough for two people to lift by hand, especially if you build them on the loft floor as instructed.
Measure diagonally from corner to corner; if the two diagonal measurements are equal, your wall (or floor) is square. Do this before nailing anything permanently.
No, these kits are too heavy to lift as a complete roof assembly. You must build the gables and trusses individually and set them one by one.
Yes, the kit instructions specify different nails for different jobs, such as 16d nails for framing walls and 10d sinkers for securing headers.
Lumber sometimes twists, but you can often force a slightly warped board into place using a lever or clamp. If it is unusable, contact the manufacturer for a replacement.
Cliff, a passionate storyteller and hardcore seller, here to share insights and knowledge on all things prep. He firmly believes in only selling things he'd use himself, making sure only the best get to his readers' hands.
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