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Step-by-Step Guide: How to Assemble the Wall Sections on Your Best Barns Kit
Building a shed is a huge milestone for any DIYer. If you’ve just unloaded your Best Barns pallet, you might be looking at that stack of 2x4s and siding panels wondering, "Where do I even start?"
Don't worry, we’ve got you covered. Best Barns kits are unique because they are designed for homeowners, not professional contractors.
The biggest difference you’ll notice during the assembly of DIY shed kits is the order of operations: unlike traditional framing where you build a skeleton and stand it up, with these kits, you often apply the siding while the wall frame is still lying flat on the ground.
This guide will walk you through how to build a shed kit wall section properly, saving you from the dreaded "why doesn't this square up?" moment later on.
Key Takeaways
- Sort first: Separate treated lumber (bottom plates) from standard lumber.
- Square it up: Diagonal measurements must match before you attach any siding.
- Check the overhang: Siding should usually hang below the bottom plate to protect your floor.
- Gravity is your friend: Install siding while the frame is flat on the ground to ensure it is straight and tight.
- Watch the "LAP": Pay attention to which edge of the siding sheet overlaps the next one.
Table of Contents
- Before You Swing a Hammer
- Tools You Will Need
- Phase 1: Framing the Skeleton
- 1. Mark Your Plates
- 2. Arrange the Lumber
- 3. Nail It Together
- 4. Squaring the Wall
- Phase 2: Applying the Siding
- 1. Check Your Overhang
- 2. The "LAP" Edge
- 3. Nailing Pattern
- Phase 3: Standing the Walls
- Frequently Asked Questions
Before You Swing a Hammer
You need to organize your workspace. Do not just rip open the bundles and start nailing.
- Sort your lumber: Separate the pressure-treated 2x4s (usually darker/greenish) from the standard white pine 2x4s. The treated ones are only for the bottom plates that touch the floor.
- Check the manual for specific lengths: Best Barns precision-cuts their studs. If the manual says grab the 92-5/8" studs, measure them. Using a slightly wrong length will throw off your roof height later.
- Find a flat surface: You will build these walls lying down. If your shed floor is already built and level, that is the perfect workbench.
Tools You Will Need
- Hammer (and a good supply of 10d and 16d nails provided in the kit)
- Tape Measure (25-foot is best)
- Chalk Line
- Speed Square or Framing Square
- Safety Glasses (Siding chips fly everywhere!)
Phase 1: Framing the Skeleton
The "plates" are the horizontal 2x4s at the very top and very bottom of the wall. The "studs" are the vertical 2x4s in between.
1. Mark Your Plates
Lay your top plate and bottom plate side-by-side on the floor. It is vital they match exactly.
Use your tape measure to mark where the studs go (usually every 16 or 24 inches, depending on your specific model).
Pro Tip: Mark an "X" on the side of the line where the stud should sit. This keeps you from nailing the stud on the wrong side of the line, which would make your spacing off by 1.5 inches.
2. Arrange the Lumber
Separate the plates. Place the pressure-treated plate at the bottom and the standard plate at the top.
Lay your pre-cut wall studs between them at your marked locations.
3. Nail It Together
Secure the studs to the plates.
- Use two 16d nails (the big ones) to go through the bottom plate into the stud.
- Use two 10d nails (the slightly smaller sinkers) to go through the top plate into the stud.
4. Squaring the Wall
Do not skip this. A wall that isn't square will make your roof trusses impossible to install later.
- Measure diagonally from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner. Write down the number.
- Measure the opposite diagonal (top-right to bottom-left).
- Shift the frame until these two numbers are exactly the same. Once they match, tack the frame to the floor temporarily with a nail so it doesn't move while you work on it.
Phase 2: Applying the Siding
This is where the magic happens. Instead of struggling to hold heavy plywood sheets up against a vertical wall, you get to nail them down comfortably while gravity does the work.
1. Check Your Overhang
Before you place the first sheet of siding, check your manual’s specific overhang instructions.
- Wood Floor Foundation: Usually, the siding must extend 3/4" to 1.5" below the bottom plate. This ensures rain drips off the siding and doesn't rot your floor.
- Concrete Slab: The siding usually sits flush with the bottom plate.
2. The "LAP" Edge
Best Barns siding has a specific groove pattern. One vertical edge of the sheet is the "LAP" edge (it has a lip). The other is the "under" edge.
- Ensure the first sheet is perfectly flush with the side of the wall frame.
- Don't nail the "LAP" edge yet if you plan to join another wall section to it later. You need that lip loose to slide over the next panel.
3. Nailing Pattern
Use the provided 6d galvanized nails (or 8d, depending on your kit).
- Nail every 8 to 9 inches along the studs.
- Do not overdrive the nails. If you bury the nail head too deep, you crush the wood fibers and weaken the hold. The head should sit flush with the siding surface.
Phase 3: Standing the Walls
Once all your wall sections are built and sided:
- Get a helper. Even with lightweight materials, these walls catch the wind like a sail.
- Lift the wall and slide it into position on your floor platform.
- Brace it immediately. Nail a spare 2x4 from the side of the wall to the floor to keep it from tipping over while you grab the next wall section.
- Nail the corners. When two wall sections meet, ensure the corners are flush and nail them together heavily.
Have any questions or would like to place an order? We'd love to help! Chat with our friendly customer service team by calling 1-844-945-3625, chatting in on our website or email us at customersupport@wildoaktrail.com. We look forward to hearing from you!
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I build the walls alone?
You can build the frames and attach siding solo, but you should definitely have a helper to stand them up. A 12-foot wall section with siding attached is heavy and awkward.
Why does my siding hang lower than the frame?
This is intentional (for wood floors). It creates a "drip edge" so water runs off the siding past the floor rim joist, preventing rot. Never align it flush unless you are on a concrete slab.
Do I need a nail gun?
No, a hammer works fine. However, a framing nailer will speed up the frame assembly, and a coil siding nailer will save your arm when installing the hundreds of nails required for the siding.
What if my diagonal measurements don't match?
Push the top of the frame left or right while a helper holds the bottom still. Keep adjusting until the diagonal numbers match perfectly. Do not install siding until they do.
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